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Jordan Milford put six ceramic chef's knives through their paces and provided this complete write up revealing that not all ceramic knives are equal.
What brands were tested?
I want to thank the following companies for providing samples for testing: Shenzhen, URI Eagle, Jaccard, and Victorinox. The market leader Kyocera refused to participate, so I would also like to thank Bed Bath and Beyond who was nice enough to supply the Kyocera and Calphalon knives. I tested the following ceramic knives (in alphabetic order):
The knives were chosen based on an internet search for ceramic knives and ranged in price from $40 to $200. I then proceeded to contact all of the vendors to determine if they would be willing to provide samples and participate. Here are the other brands that I was unable to contact and/or refused to participate: Asahi (ASKB8H7), Yoshi, Silicone Zone, Boker, Stoneline. Note: Even though Kyocera refused to provide me with a sample, I felt it was necessary to compare against since they are the current market leader.
Test procedure (see Chef's Knives Rated)
All of the knives were tested out-of-the-box because based on the same assumption made in the original test (i.e. that most readers will not be hand sharpening their knives). I felt this assumption was even more valid in the case of ceramic knives which pride themselves on holding an edge and not needing to resharpened. In addition, most manufacturers recommended knives be sent back for sharpening which I assume would return it to an out-of-the-box condition anyway.
I followed the same test procedure as Michael to evaluate the knives and decided to add one steel knife as a control. Originally, I was going to take the top knife from the previous test but had trouble getting a sample and also wanted to compare it to a knife I was used to using. I therefore chose the Calphalon knife that I use and purchased a new one to ensure it would be tested in the same out-of-the-box condition.
The following test procedures are taken from the original chef knife test performed by Michael Chu. The only change necessary for the ceramic knives was a small force was required to advance the knives. The ceramic knives weigh significantly less than steel counterparts and therefore the weight of the knife itself is not sufficient to complete the cut.
Test 1: Carrot Test
Description: Unpeeled carrots were cut in two different ways. The first method started by positioning the carrot parallel to the counter and driving the heel of the knife into the carrot at a 30° (from horizontal) angle. The blade was driven in (like a wedge) for about 2 mm, enough for the knife to stay in place. The knife was then pulled from heel to tip along that groove. The motion was completed with a slight downward pressure. The result was examined - a sharp knife would be able to slice cleanly through the carrot, a duller knife might slice through most of the way but end with the carrot snapping off, while a very dull knife would simply slide in the groove. The second test method involved cutting thin (1 mm or less) cross-sectional slices from the carrot. The slicing was accomplished by starting the tip (about an inch from the point) of the knife on the surface of the carrot and pushing the knife forward and down (usually traversing only a couple inches) to cut through. The effort required to cut through as well as the cleanliness of the cut were compared to rank the knives.
Test 2: Potato Test
Description: A potato was first cut in half along its major axis (long side). A potato half was then set down on the cutting board with its cut side down to keep the potato from rolling or moving during the test. Thin slices of potato were cut off by starting the tip on the surface of the potato and pushing the knife forward. This technique was used to perform the majority of the ranking based on effort needed to cut through, cleanliness of cut, and how straight the cut was. In cases where it was difficult to determine if one knife was superior to another with similar performance, a reverse stroke was used as well: the stroke started with the heel of the knife and the knife was pulled back without any additional downward effort.
Test 3: Tomatoes
Description: This is a very popular demonstration (although I'm not sure why - I've only seen extremely dull knives perform badly with tomatoes). Because, in my experience, all knives cut tomatoes reasonably well, I focused on the feel of the knife during the cut. Specifically, I watched for any slipping while cutting and the level of ease with which the knife slid through the tomato. None of the tomatoes were crushed, were mangled, or lost excessive juice during the test. The tomato was first cut in half through its axis of symmetry (through the stem to the tip) and laid down to prevent rolling. The heel of the knife was placed on the skin and the knife was pulled back allowing the weight of the knife to help the blade slide through the tomato.
Test 4: Scallions
Description: The greens of fresh scallions were thinly sliced into circles using both a mincing motion (keeping the point anchored on the cutting board and pushing the heel of the blade down) and a short slicing motion (placing the point on the board and the scallions under the middle of the knife and sliding the knife forward about an inch). Both actions were repeated for several seconds as scallions were fed under the knife with the left hand. Both the feel of the knife and the cleanliness of the chopped scallions (clean cuts or signs of crushing, bruising, or tearing) were taken into account in this test.
During my research, I came across a claim by Kyocera that their knives were the best because of the cleanliness of the cutting surface at high magnification. So, in addition to the performance testing, I decided it would be beneficial to look at the cutting edge under magnification to either validate or refute this claim. I have attached these images in the appendix.
The Knives (in alphabetical order)
Calphalon 8-in Chef's Knife (control)
Most common price: $29.95 (Amazon.com & Bed Bath and Beyond)
What brands were tested?
I want to thank the following companies for providing samples for testing: Shenzhen, URI Eagle, Jaccard, and Victorinox. The market leader Kyocera refused to participate, so I would also like to thank Bed Bath and Beyond who was nice enough to supply the Kyocera and Calphalon knives. I tested the following ceramic knives (in alphabetic order):
- Calphalon 8-in Chef's Knife (Control)
- Kyocera Damascus 6-in Chef's Knife (P/N: KT-155-HIP-D)
- Kyocera Revolution 6-in Chef's Knife (P/N: FK-160)
- Jaccard 6-in Chef's Knife LX (P/N: 6160)
- Shenzen 6-in Chef's Knife
- URI Eagle 6-in Chef's Knife (P/N: Nu2006)
- Victorinox 6-in Chef's Knife (P/N: 7.2003.15G)
Test procedure (see Chef's Knives Rated)
All of the knives were tested out-of-the-box because based on the same assumption made in the original test (i.e. that most readers will not be hand sharpening their knives). I felt this assumption was even more valid in the case of ceramic knives which pride themselves on holding an edge and not needing to resharpened. In addition, most manufacturers recommended knives be sent back for sharpening which I assume would return it to an out-of-the-box condition anyway.
I followed the same test procedure as Michael to evaluate the knives and decided to add one steel knife as a control. Originally, I was going to take the top knife from the previous test but had trouble getting a sample and also wanted to compare it to a knife I was used to using. I therefore chose the Calphalon knife that I use and purchased a new one to ensure it would be tested in the same out-of-the-box condition.
The following test procedures are taken from the original chef knife test performed by Michael Chu. The only change necessary for the ceramic knives was a small force was required to advance the knives. The ceramic knives weigh significantly less than steel counterparts and therefore the weight of the knife itself is not sufficient to complete the cut.
Test 1: Carrot Test
Description: Unpeeled carrots were cut in two different ways. The first method started by positioning the carrot parallel to the counter and driving the heel of the knife into the carrot at a 30° (from horizontal) angle. The blade was driven in (like a wedge) for about 2 mm, enough for the knife to stay in place. The knife was then pulled from heel to tip along that groove. The motion was completed with a slight downward pressure. The result was examined - a sharp knife would be able to slice cleanly through the carrot, a duller knife might slice through most of the way but end with the carrot snapping off, while a very dull knife would simply slide in the groove. The second test method involved cutting thin (1 mm or less) cross-sectional slices from the carrot. The slicing was accomplished by starting the tip (about an inch from the point) of the knife on the surface of the carrot and pushing the knife forward and down (usually traversing only a couple inches) to cut through. The effort required to cut through as well as the cleanliness of the cut were compared to rank the knives.
Test 2: Potato Test
Description: A potato was first cut in half along its major axis (long side). A potato half was then set down on the cutting board with its cut side down to keep the potato from rolling or moving during the test. Thin slices of potato were cut off by starting the tip on the surface of the potato and pushing the knife forward. This technique was used to perform the majority of the ranking based on effort needed to cut through, cleanliness of cut, and how straight the cut was. In cases where it was difficult to determine if one knife was superior to another with similar performance, a reverse stroke was used as well: the stroke started with the heel of the knife and the knife was pulled back without any additional downward effort.
Test 3: Tomatoes
Description: This is a very popular demonstration (although I'm not sure why - I've only seen extremely dull knives perform badly with tomatoes). Because, in my experience, all knives cut tomatoes reasonably well, I focused on the feel of the knife during the cut. Specifically, I watched for any slipping while cutting and the level of ease with which the knife slid through the tomato. None of the tomatoes were crushed, were mangled, or lost excessive juice during the test. The tomato was first cut in half through its axis of symmetry (through the stem to the tip) and laid down to prevent rolling. The heel of the knife was placed on the skin and the knife was pulled back allowing the weight of the knife to help the blade slide through the tomato.
Test 4: Scallions
Description: The greens of fresh scallions were thinly sliced into circles using both a mincing motion (keeping the point anchored on the cutting board and pushing the heel of the blade down) and a short slicing motion (placing the point on the board and the scallions under the middle of the knife and sliding the knife forward about an inch). Both actions were repeated for several seconds as scallions were fed under the knife with the left hand. Both the feel of the knife and the cleanliness of the chopped scallions (clean cuts or signs of crushing, bruising, or tearing) were taken into account in this test.
During my research, I came across a claim by Kyocera that their knives were the best because of the cleanliness of the cutting surface at high magnification. So, in addition to the performance testing, I decided it would be beneficial to look at the cutting edge under magnification to either validate or refute this claim. I have attached these images in the appendix.
The Knives (in alphabetical order)
Calphalon 8-in Chef's Knife (control)Most common price: $29.95 (Amazon.com & Bed Bath and Beyond
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This not only affects grip-to-blade angle, but generally the grind and the cross section of the grind/bevel as well.
I'm curious if it would be possible to repeat the test by isolating the french-pattern and santoku-pattern knives with a steel control for each. Alternatively, giving some description of the edge bevel for each might also provide some insight into the relative chop-versus-slice performance for each blade.
I can see how the tip on a traditional chef's knife might be more prone to breaking, but can't think of any other rationale besides marketing.
I tried a Santoku style once and hated it, yet still want to play with a ceramic some time. I guess a Kyocera paring knife is my future.
Great review -- thanks for the hard work!
Personally, I'd rather have wood handles. It's not like people who buy $50+ ceramic knives do so because they can thrown them in the dishwasher.
Two of them have now chipped endpoints due to accidental dropping. The newest ones have a lot more sharp (different sharpening production tecnique) but also a lot more brittle blades. The oldest one, a Cerastar knife, even if dulled with use and chipped, is still sharp enough to serve everyday usage.
The white blades get stained very easily when you cut artichokes or carrots, and every now and then I clean them with a concentrated bleach solution.
Paring knife, short chef knife, and veg peeler.
They are very light and very sharp. The first week or more that you use it, the light weight of the knife is jarring. I got used to it. Now I switch between ceramic and metal without thinking.
The paring knife is great.
The chef knife is fine, but is quite delicate. I have dropped mine a couple of times and the tip has broken off. It still works, but the lack of tip throws off the balance.
Consider ceramic knives for chopping veg or precision slicing duties.
If you are hacking & prying or cutting up something really heavy (like maybe a pumpkin), stick with steel.
The veg peeler is useless. It just doesn't work.
I also prefer the blade in line with the handle, not perpedicular like the Kyocera.
Paring knife, short chef knife, and veg peeler.
...
The veg peeler is useless. It just doesn't work.
I also prefer the blade in line with the handle, not perpedicular like the Kyocera.
I bought a Kyocera paring knife and Vertical peeler and find I prefer my metal paring knife but just LOVE the peeler. One thing I've learned it that you occasionally need to spray the peeler with Easy-Off and scrub it with a toothbrush, else the ceramic gets sticky and doesn't work as well.
Personally, I'd rather have wood handles. It's not like people who buy $50+ ceramic knives do so because they can thrown them in the dishwasher.
I like also wood handle knives. I felt more comfortable with them. Ceramic handles are ok but I felt its more slippery to handle than the wood handle. Anyway its my only opinion.
B)