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Knife sharpenig solutions......

 
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daniel1



Joined: 27 Jun 2008
Posts: 1
PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2008 10:09 am    Post subject: Knife sharpenig solutions...... Reply with quote
Few days ago I got an information about an excellent sharpeners from dmtsharp.com which has solved my kitchen problem.............

Now I am using it.It quickly sharpens the toughest stainless steel kitchen cutlery while removing a minimum of material from the blade... unlike electric sharpeners. Manual sharpening with DMT products is fast, easy and versatile.
Hope this info is going to help you lot.
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SirShazar



Joined: 30 Jul 2007
Posts: 89
PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2008 3:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
I like using DMT plates for my coarse work (repairing chips, changing the angle, even some reprofiling), but the finish it leaves is too coarse to cut properly, so I go on to my waterstones to get that razor edge.
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rembrant



Joined: 30 Jun 2008
Posts: 11
Location: Santa Cruz Mountains
PostPosted: Wed Jul 09, 2008 9:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
DMT makes diamond stones. Diamond stones are especially nice for the coarse prep phase. The finest diamond stones are pretty good,but I favor a hard Arkansas stone for finishing an edge. I prefer a rather smooth,low drag edge. Some cooks like to have some blades sharpened on a medium diamond,getting a rather toothy edge,kind of a mini-serration. That does work well for SOME cuts. I prefer to double bevel with the most acute angle the knife and stone can give.
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buzzard767



Joined: 30 Jan 2008
Posts: 21
PostPosted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 1:25 am    Post subject: Re: Knife sharpenig solutions...... Reply with quote
daniel1 wrote:
Few days ago I got an information about an excellent sharpeners from dmtsharp.com which has solved my kitchen problem.............

Now I am using it.It quickly sharpens the toughest stainless steel kitchen cutlery while removing a minimum of material from the blade... unlike electric sharpeners. Manual sharpening with DMT products is fast, easy and versatile.
Hope this info is going to help you lot.


Depends on your definition of sharp. I use DMT Diasharps for profiling blades but that's where it stops. This isn't sharp. Once the new angle is cut I go Bester 700, Shapton GlassStone 1k, 2k, 4k, 8k, Naniwa 10k, and then strop on leather with .5 micron Chromium Oxide.

Now I'm sharpening Hitachi Blue, White, Powdered, or Swedish AEB-L/13C26 steel at 10 degrees or less which can take and hold and edge to this degree.

When it comes to German or French steels, you might as well stop at 4k or so because the steel can't really take anymore without falling apart. 4k with CrO stropping at 15 degrees or so will yield about the best edge you're ever going to get. It won't last too long because it isn't very hard but steeling with a GLASS SMOOTH steel will realign the edge for a reasonable amount of time.
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